We awoke to a leisurely morning…my favorite kind of morning.
To our local breakfast spot for eggs, toast and coffee, we went with coconut milk in tow. It was our third time to Café Mamaine. Then we walked to our local mercado to enjoy some fritas.
We arrived at Mimita’s where she had a stack of photo albums for us to enjoy. The pictures in the albums made me melancholy. Mimita’s albums contained many pictures I had never seen. My parents only had a few pictures of Cuba in their possession.
I remember showing my Papi a sixth grade class pictures and him asking me if I knew all the names of my classmates. At my ripe middle school age, I found his question ridiculous. I named all of my classmates and he matter of fact told me to write them all down as I would not remember them when I got older.
I did as he suggested, my Papi was a very smart man. He was right. I wish he would of abided by his own advice and done the same with our family pictures. There are numerous photos which do not bear the names of those photographed and neither of my parents are here anymore to tell me who they are and their stories.
Fortunately, Mimita filled in some of the gaps. I photographed many of her pictures with my IPhone. I listened to Mimita and Tía Nena identify the people and recount stories. I was moved and left thirsty for more stories.
The girls and I did not have any specific plans for the day, so we hopped in the car and went for un paseo (a drive). I love an adventure.
While driving they pointed out El Paseo del Prado, the street in Havana which divides Centro Habana and Habana Vieja. There is a large park-like medium in the middle of the street which on Saturdays acts as their MLS website for property. In 2011 Cubans were once again allowed to buy and sell property, albeit without financing. Signs read “se vende” (for sale) with a description of the property.
We continued our paseo. Mimita suggested Luis drive us to Club Havana, the beach club not the rum distiller. Club Havana is located at Ave. 5ta entre 188 y 192, Reparto Flores. It has a long and distinguished history as a beach club for the wealthy but today it is the only beach club left which caters mostly to the expatriate community.
We pull up to the gate house and Luis explains to the guard he only wants to show his American family the club. The girls and I are astounded when she raises the gate and grants us access. We walk through the lavish interior and head straight for the beach.
We remove our shoes and head to an open plastic table where a cabana boy takes our frozen drink order. A few people are sunbathing and quietly conversing in different languages. Luis takes the opportunity to use their Wi-Fi and face time with his daughter in Spain. He passed the phone to the girls and me so we could meet Lissi.
I spoke to her in Spanish while the girls used Spanglish (a hybrid language combining words and idioms from both Spanish and English). While Mimita was chatting with her daughter, I caught a glimpse of my Mami. It was beautiful. The girls and I collected some rocks from the shore, a little memorabilia for us to cherish.
We continued our paseo down 5ta Avenida (5th Avenue), a major artery of the municipality of Playa in Havana. This wide street runs through Miramar and is lined with many foreign embassies. In addition, the homes are large and luxurious and their grounds are green and lush.
Our paseo ended with Luis dropping Mimita, the girls, and I off at La Rampa, Calle 23. This street runs from el Malecòn to Calle L and is lined by airline offices, at one of which Mimita worked, cinemas, nightclubs, office buildings, and vendors selling handmade goods. It is also the location where Coco Chanel held its May 2016 fashion show. Mimita described La Rampa as where la juventud (youth) spend their weekend nights walking up and down the street.
We finished our stroll and Mimita rang Luis to drop us at Donde Lis Paladar, located at Tejadillo 163 Entre Habana y Compostela . We were seated at a table in a back room with monstrous glass beveled French doors. On a side note, the restrooms were the best we had seen, lined with black and white men’s underwear photos on tiles.
We ordered our usual beverages and beef capriccio and malanga frita con mel (fried malanga with honey dipping sauce) for appetizers. Dinner included ropa vieja, pollo empanizado (breaded chicken), carne de rez con hongo (beef with mushrooms), and longosta a la parrilla (grilled lobster). Everything was delicious. Mimita quickly phoned Luis and we were whisked away.
Back at our casita, we recapped our day’s adventures on the balcony…our new nightly tradition. I was beginning to anticipate the end to my journey. We still had so much to do and see. How would we squeeze all of it into our two remaining days?
Tranquila….buenas noche (good night).
Until next time…
· izzy
For 50 years I eagerly listened to stories about Cuba from my parents, family, family friends, and even strangers. With the passing of my Papi and my Mami I began to long for the connection we shared with our birth-land. After months of planning, myself along with my two daughters and a close friend traveled approximately 93 miles south of Key West to the Pearl of the Antilles.
We arrived to Cuba as a party of four…but we felt like a party of five as we carried a backpack with us always. The backpack became known as la Mochila and Mimita affectionately nicknamed it “la 70 kilo mochila”. Each morning I packed la Mochila for the day ahead.
Early morning wakeup call! We were chomping at the bit for our road trip to Viñales. The four of us walked to Mimita’s home where we were once again greeted with café. Today Mimita would stay home to care for her mother and Luis would drive and accompany us on our first road trip in Cuba.
I awoke in my bed to the familiar humming of my room air-conditioner. What time is it? There was not a clock in my room and our cell phones slept in la Mochila. Who else is awake? What are we going to do with our day? It was a leisurely morning for all of us. Because of our limited Wi-Fi access, weather was determined by opening the wood shuttered doors to our balcony. The day was a overcast. It felt right, like a comforting blanket, we were assimilating to Cuba.
Up at eight bells!
No time for our customary trip to el mercado. We need to pack our overnight bags. We are taking a road trip to Varadero Beach.
We returned to the open air establishment for café and pictures on the beach. The wind had settled, the surf had calmed, and the red flag had been removed allowing bathers to venture into the pristine water.
Time to hit the road.
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